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Rosie Sykes is a cook and food writer. 😗 Her latest book, Every Last Bite: Save Money, Time and Waste with 70 Recipes that Make the Most of Mealtimes, 😗 is published by Quadrille at £18.99. To order a copy for £17.09, go to guardianbookshop.com
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A utumn has arrived, and with it comes a variety of squashes, root vegetables, and dark-leaved greens. As the evenings 😗 get colder, there's nothing better than warm and comforting ingredients, and pulses are a great way to make any main 😗 meal go a long way. Earthy brown lentils are a popular choice, and even dried ones don't take long to 😗 cook if you soak them first. Butter beans, on the other hand, have a lot of texture and body, making 😗 them the king of beans in my opinion.
Stuffed Squash with Lentils (pictured at the top)
Tinned lentils are a convenient 😗 and quick staple, but dried lentils can also be used: replace the tin with 200g of washed dried lentils soaked 😗 in 600ml of water or vegetable stock, and increase the cooking time to ensure they are tender. If you prefer, 😗 you can leave out the lardons to make the dish vegetarian. The type of squash is up to you - 😗 there are many varieties to choose from. Here, I've cut the squash into rounds and removed the seeds, but you 😗 could also cut it in half and deseed to make a neat cavity for the lentil stuffing; shave a bit 😗 off the base so the squash halves sit nicely on the tray. If you cook it this way, the squash 😗 will take longer to roast but it will look great.
Prep time: 20 min Cook time: 1 hour 30 min Serves: 😗 4
5 tbsp light olive oil, 100g lardons (optional), 2 medium onions, peeled and sliced, Sea salt and black pepper, 1 😗 leek, trimmed, cut in half lengthways, then finely sliced (use as much as green as possible) and washed, 3 sticks 😗 celery, trimmed, washed and finely sliced, 2 carrots, peeled, cut in half lengthways, then cut into fine half-moons, 3 garlic 😗 cloves, peeled and thinly sliced, 2 heaped tbsp tomato paste, or 200ml passata, 410g tin green lentils, undrained, 1 sprig 😗 each thyme and rosemary, and 1 bay leaf (or whatever you have to hand), 2 tbsp sherry vinegar, 200ml vegetable 😗 stock, 1 small-medium squash (about 800g), unpeeled, cut into 2cm-thick rounds and deseeded.
To finish:
350g creme fraiche, or greek yoghurt or 😗 fromage frais, 1 egg, 200g grated cheese (use up any bits and bobs), 50g breadcrumbs, 1 small handful flat-leaf parsley, 😗 finely chopped.
Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Put a tablespoon of the oil in a small casserole for 😗 which you have a lid, and put it in the oven to heat up. Once the oil is hot, add 😗 the lardons, if using, return the casserole to the oven uncovered and cook for five or so minutes, until the 😗 bacon is crisp. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the lardons to a plate, leaving all the fat behind in 😗 the casserole, then add the onions, a splash more oil and a good pinch of salt to the pot. Cover 😗 and return to the oven for 10 minutes, until the onions soften and take on a bit of color.
Add another 😗 tablespoon of the oil to the pot, then stir in the sliced leek, celery and carrot, cover again and return 😗 to the oven for 15 minutes, until the vegetables have started to soften and get some golden-brown edges.
Once the vegetables 😗 have softened, stir in the garlic and tomato paste, then return to the oven, uncovered, for five minutes. Stir in 😗 the lentils, crisp lardons (if using), herbs, sherry vinegar and stock, and return to the oven, uncovered, for another 20-30 😗 minutes. Meanwhile, arrange the squash rounds in a single layer on an oven tray into which they'll fit snugly, then 😗 season and douse with oil. Roast alongside the lentils for 20 minutes, until tender to the tip of a sharp 😗 knife, then take out of the oven to await the stuffing.
Now make the topping: mix the creme fraiche, egg and 😗 all but a heaped tablespoon of the cheese in a bowl. Mix the remaining cheese with the breadcrumbs and parsley 😗 in a small bowl.
Once the lentils have had a good time in the oven and have a nice, spoonable consistency 😗 – they need some liquid around them – season to taste, then spoon into the roast squash rounds. Pour over 😗 the creme fraiche topping, scatter on the cheesy, herby crumbs and bake again for 20 minutes, until the top is 😗 bubbling and golden. Serve with some greens on the side, if you fancy.
Baked Butter Beans with Chermoula
Chermoula is a fragrant north African herb sauce often paired with grilled 😗 fish; it also makes a great marinade for many things. This simple, all-in-one dish is a great vegetarian or vegan 😗 main, but it also works as a side for grilled or baked chicken or fish; any leftovers would make a 😗 great packed lunch, perhaps with some crumbled feta and salad. I love the butter beans you get in jars these 😗 days – they have such a good, rich flavor and their thick, gelatinous juice really adds to a dish. I 😗 usually warm them in the oven until that delicious liquor melts and then pour it off to use later in 😗 the dish. Serve these with grilled flatbreads and maybe some halloumi baked while the beans are doing their thing.
Prep time: 😗 20 min Cook time: 50 min Serves: 4
For the chermoula:
1 heaped tsp cumin seeds, 1 generous handful flat-leaf parsley, thicker 😗 stalks removed and discarded, leaves and tender stalks roughly chopped, 1 generous handful coriander, roughly chopped, stalks and all, 5 😗 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped, 1 red chilli, pith and seeds removed and discarded, flesh roughly chopped, 1 tsp 😗 smoked paprika, ½ lemon, juiced, then peeled and zest finely chopped, Salt, 90ml light olive oil
For the beans:
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Heat the oven to 😗 210C (190C fan)/410F/gas 6½. Put the cumin in a small dish and toast in the warming oven for a minute 😗 or two, until they smell fragrant, then remove and leave to cool. Chop the cumin seeds a bit (or break 😗 them down in a mortar), then tip them into a food processor and add the herbs, garlic, chilli, paprika, lemon 😗 juice, a teaspoon of the chopped lemon zest and half a teaspoon of salt. Blitz smooth, then slowly add the 😗 olive oil to help things along, to make a loose paste.
Put the butter beans, potatoes and onion wedges in an 😗 oven tray in which they fit in a single layer, sprinkle with salt and scatter over the remaining lemon zest. 😗 Splash the chermoula all over the vegetables, then toss with your hands so everything gets well coated.
Mix the reserved bean 😗 liquor and the tinned tomato juice in a measuring jug, then add warm water to make it up to 250ml. 😗 Pour this carefully into the bean dish, so as not to wash off the marinade, then roast for 20 minutes, 😗 until the vegetables have some nice, crisp edges and the potatoes and onions are starting to soften.
Add the tomatoes and 😗 peppers, give everything a good stir – if the mix seems dry, add a little water – then return to 😗 the oven for another 15 minutes. By now, everything should be lightly browned on the surface, the onions and potatoes 😗 should be cooked through and the juices should have reduced into a thick sauce; if there doesn't seem to be 😗 enough, simply pour in some boiling water and stir to make a bit more juice. Check for seasoning, then serve 😗 with bread for mopping up and some greens, if you like.
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